All you ardent followers of the BEST website in the universe (okay – 38 Barnwell Lane!) will have read that we were going up to Mont Blanc du Tacul to try some routes. Well we actually did – via a very sophisticated cake shop in Chamonix Sud (I don’t think we quite fitted in but the coffee/gateaux were superb!!).
Arrived at the Cosmiques hut and the hut wasn’ t too busy – only six others apart from us. However, there were two dutch climbers intent on the same route as us the following morning (dash it!). There was also the choice of a 5am or 7am breakfast – no brainer – 7am. A new day dawned and … one of the dutch climbers has been ill during the night so we had the Modica-Noury goulotte to ourselves (YAY!! – sorry).
It seemed like an early start but 7am by alpine standards is .. well .. midday. Unlike the majority of knowledgeable alpine climbers we had decided to walk (rather than ski effortlessly). The walk wasn’t actually too bad and the scenery was simply stunning.
On the approach up to the Modica-Noury
Only slightly out of breath we arrived below the Modica-Noury which unfortunately for us, already had a couple of french climbers on it. No rest for the wicked – so after a quick coffee and bit of choc we soloed up after the party ahead determined to catch up (childish I know!!). The first few pitches of the route were a sort of race between us, the french team and a couple of (fast!) Austrians – needless to say we weren’t the first to the steep pitches above. The Austrians headed left to another slightly easier couloir whilst we follwed the french up the steeper M-N.
Modica-Noury is the the thin white line to the right - mmm!!
We belayed with the french team as they tackled the first serious pitch in the goulotte. Clearly one of them wasn’t too confident as he took his time and knocked off some quite big bits of ice (not THAT big but they would have stung a little). A pitch or two later we shared a stance with the french guys and had some good banter about Britain and the french language. At the last stance the goulotte narrowed and became quite impressive and they handed us the last pitch to lead. Looking up at the rather steep groove ahead I was not sure they were being that generous! Unfortunately it was my lead. In the end it all went smoothly enough although I am sure it overhung slightly (can ice do that?). However a nice peg hidden under the snow softened the pyschological impact. Yeehaa – the top and a route I have wanted to do for longer than I care to remember in the bag.
View down to Mark on the second steep pitch
French team ahead ("quick Mark we are catching them up!")
Pulling over the top of the last pitch (550m of quality ice below)
Post route - yippee - only a 2 and a half hour walk back!!
The two and a half hours seemed like eternity (plus a bit!!).
Errmm ... rather pooped ... nice sunset but I really don't care at present!!
Great day though – typically alpine. It’s stressful, tiring etc. etc. but for some bizarre reason its absolutely brilliant! Why? I have no idea.
wimpyalpinism 
Should think you will be very pleased with doing that route! Love the last picture. Wish I was still there. Rachel
It was the route that I really wanted to do so not too bad for our first alpine winter route
Congratulations – it looks incredibly technical (I will look up the grade when I log off here). What was the protection like?
The protection was quite reasonable although the last pitch looked a bit of a horror but wasn’t actually as bold as it looked. Especially as I found a new bombproof peg at the steepest bit 🙂
Its looking really great – wish i was there !! Nice photos too
Wow, looks pretty epic. Not jealous at all, can’t wait for another day of thesis writing.
Keep up the blogging, the pictures are amazing.
Hey … you can have too much of fantastic clmbing; french culture; super weather; everyday a holiday etc. etc. but … sooner or later you crave to be able to write a thesis! (Okay – I lie :)!)
Looks like a good trip, Looking forward to watching the video too, Just seen some great stuff at the Hope Adventure Film festival.
Looks as though you are enjoying yourselves. The Modica-Noury should be a good warm up for bigger things!
Mmm … it maybe the ‘biggest thing’!