wimpyalpinism   welcome to the world of cowardly mountain activities …

The first outside meet of the Wednesday evening season and what a really nice one!  Some photos to remind us all of how good it was (just in case it rains the rest of the time!!).

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Oh dear – running out of time and weather is getting cold and snowy for the next couple of days 😦 so … we have decided to draw stumps and head back!

We could have strung it out for one last trip but I think the adrenaline reserves are a little low at present and everything aches a little so see you all soon.

A bientot

After the Pelissier we spent the night at the Cosmiques Hut. However although the Pelissier was supposed to be an ‘easy’ day – to get us into the mood for ‘Pinocchio’ the day after – it completely wiped both of us out. Time to rethink our gameplan and look at some less uncompromising objectives. The perfect choice was the Chere couloir: close to the hut (40 mins across the Col du Midi), we could get there before the crowds from the first telepherique and you can abseil off after all the nice climbing. Game on!

The following morning we had the ‘late’ 7 am breakfast (you can get one at 1 am if you are REALLY keen!!) and headed across the glacier. Wonderfully peaceful and quiet – just the occasional squeaky snowy footstep.

The approach to the foot of the Chere requires crossing a relatively ‘friendly’ bergschrund (just left of some not so … seracs) and then up an easy slope to the first real pitch.

Crossing the 'schrund - the route is the thin white line above

The rest of the route was superb even if the ice was a little on the hard brittle side. I had done it before many moons ago but it was really nice to be on something not too serious (in alpine terms!) where we could relax a little and enjoy the climbing. Four or five pitches of pleasant ice led to the top of the steep stuff and a nice abseil retreat (no nonsense about getting to the summit!).

Me on pitch 3

By the time we came to head down there were already three other parties on the route behind us. We managed to escape down the route without too many rope tangling events. As we passed a french team of three (2 guides and a client) we were glad we weren’t following them up the route as the ‘client’ proceeded to try and demolish the route as he went. We felt sorry for the Italians who had to put up with a constant battering from lumps of ice as Monsieur le Neanderthal beat his way up the route.

The rest of the day passed relatively pleasantly – even the skinning back up to the telepherique station didn’t seem too bad. Perhaps we are getting into this alpine thing. Just need another extended season or two!

Fresh from our ‘warm’ time in Italy we decided that the mountains were the only place that would be any good. This was confirmed by our view of the Argentiere icefalls from our little balcony – each day a new bit had fallen off one of the routes. On out last visit all the continenetal climbers skied in to the routes with little rucsacs (and in usually very trendy gear) and it all looked rather easy. We decided to do the same (but without the small rucsacs and trendy gear). Another slight twist is that I can’t ski that well and in any case ski-ing with a large rucsac is next to impossible. Mmmm … good idea??

Enough said about the approach apart from the fact that I neither fell down the North Face of the Midi nor came to grief on the icy crevassed slopes that led to the bpttom of our route – the Pelissier Gully on Point Lachenal. Not a big alpine route (350m) but it did have a repuation for quality. Greta choice and lovely. Some nice icy pitches to start and then it opened up into a nice big sunny (!) groove with some excellent Severe(-ish) rock climbing in crampons and then another 2 or 3 pitches of snow to the top.

Just a quick update on today’s activities. Super warm today and almost time to get out the rock boots! However, it is our last day at Cogne so we decided we ought to try and get a nice ice route in before they all turn to ‘eau’. we looked at various uninviting dripping icicles before settling on Tutti Relativo which was really pleasant.

Second pitch

UNUSUAL EVENT – prior to doing the second pitch we shared the route with four spanish climbers (three blokes and a quite attractive young woman – more of the latter later). One of the spanish climbers tried the second pitch but backed off (no disgrace there – it was steep and tricky). However whilst he tackled the second pitch pillar me and Mark were ‘privy’ to a most unusual exhibition of experimental physics – the permeability of goretex membranes. Obviously the cold and large amounts of coffee had an effect on the attractive young spanish woman climber and she must have needed to ‘go’ rather desperately (with hindsight I think she should have sorted matters out before embarking on the route – I am sure she would agree too). Anyhow reversing over the slight ice bulge below there stance must have resulted in a bit too much pressure. Hence it is now a proven fact that goretex overtrousers are not very wee watertight from the inside out – as it were.

We took the plunge and moved on from Chamonix. I am not sure whether Silvio has actually ever been to Cogne let alone climbed there but … perhaps between various political scandals he has exchanged banter with Stevie about the subtleties of figure 4s on X-Files. Probably not but it would have been good for both of them I am sure.

We have booked ourselves into Les Nigratelles and … wow … we have our own little apartment with wifi; clean sheets; hot shower; en suite etc. etc. (PS when I say ‘we’ please don’t read anything into the terminology!). Awesome! great day on Sunday:

https://wimpyalpinism.me/alps/through-the-tunnel-to-italy-and-cogne/

Just had a good rest day and … still feel tired!? However Frank was keen to take me and Mark up to ‘his’ new route above a little place called Buet (a mile or so away). Over the meal last night Frank assured us both that the approach was ‘flat’ and the route was safe. Ho, ho, ho!!!

Arrived at Buet and I was slightly curious as to how ‘flat’ could equate to 700m of ascent (assuming the map wasn’t incorrect) – “Nay bother, its nay tooo baadd” – Ahhh!! For some reason  – and I have no logical explanation why – we knew it would be a good day!

After a seeming eternity (I mean it!) of switch back after switch back; warm temps and lots of frenchies overtaking us with ease we got to see THE ice fall. We were all very enthusiastic about the route – it looked really fantastic – apart from the spontaneous avalanches that kept sweeping the slopes above the route. Errmm … me and Mark were definitely in the ‘wimpyalpinism’ camp and preferrred not to get too close … Frank agreed.

Team ski (compeed) before the ava ...

It was about the same point in time that 3 french skiers up to our left had a ‘underpant changing’ experience as the slope they were on avalanched in a big way. No-one hurt thankfully.  Okay – time to go down!!!

Being a bit of a wimp I put my climbing helmet on (just in case a tree jumped out in front of me!) to descend via the switchbacks. Unbelievably it was great fun!

Anyhow to finish here is a ‘nice’ picture of Mark’s foot after a few days ski-ing. Admittedly he needs a good pedicure but he does have an impressive blister too!!

Ugghh ... and the blister isn't very nice either.

Hi everyone – just had 3 days up at the Cosmiques hut and it was rather good. In fact it was so good that I definitely need a rest day today (body has ground to a halt!). Mark has gone off to ski the Vallee Blanche (plus an extra bit) with Frank. Anyhow rest day today so time to catch up with the Blogosphere and go to Cham to eat cakes and watch the world go by!

I have added some new pages – so if you want to take a look!

https://wimpyalpinism.me/alps/modica-noury-goulotte/

https://wimpyalpinism.me/alps/cosmiques-arete/

Dawn over the Grandes Jorasses - nice view from the breakfast table!

I must admit to feeling a little tired as this was the 7th day in a row (wimp! But at least true to the ethos …).  We visited Cervieres today because it was a nice place to ski and also climb but equally it was  a 50 minute drive so we could have a rest in the car!  It was all ‘ski de fond’ but it still somehow involved 240m of ascent. The track skis were a little tricky and the sac full of climbing gear didn’t help the balance. Anyhow we made it to the crag and back (of course) and a good time was had by all. Rach and Stu fly back to morrow so looking forward to the rest/drive to Geneva :

Coooollllllll

Cascade Le Bourget - Cervieres

Okay so I got a bit lazy and missed out day 3 -5 (at least) but Stu’s blog was a bit too good – so look at Stu’ s blog for details of the previous days’ activities.

Mark arived last night so we headed of for the Cascade de la Balme (aka Erection!!). The guidebook said 20 mins so in true brit style we arrived at the base of the route in about 45 mins.  Mmm … quite impressive and intimidating.  Obviously Mark’s lead but no … he handed the sharp end to me on the grounds that I had been out for a week etc.

It was all rather steep and drippy (wet!!). For some reason I chose to wear my glasses today and had to carefully take them off and stash them in a pocket prior to the upper section.  Very pragmatic solution but I couldn’t really focus too well on the footholds :).  Great route and a good portent of things to come??  Who knows 🙂

Approaching the route

Deep breaths keep calm ... Mark's watching!

Bit of a bum shot (but at least it is petite)

Mark pulling over the steep bit - very wet!