Archive for February 2012
Just a quick update on today’s activities. Super warm today and almost time to get out the rock boots! However, it is our last day at Cogne so we decided we ought to try and get a nice ice route in before they all turn to ‘eau’. we looked at various uninviting dripping icicles before settling on Tutti Relativo which was really pleasant.
Second pitch
UNUSUAL EVENT – prior to doing the second pitch we shared the route with four spanish climbers (three blokes and a quite attractive young woman – more of the latter later). One of the spanish climbers tried the second pitch but backed off (no disgrace there – it was steep and tricky). However whilst he tackled the second pitch pillar me and Mark were ‘privy’ to a most unusual exhibition of experimental physics – the permeability of goretex membranes. Obviously the cold and large amounts of coffee had an effect on the attractive young spanish woman climber and she must have needed to ‘go’ rather desperately (with hindsight I think she should have sorted matters out before embarking on the route – I am sure she would agree too). Anyhow reversing over the slight ice bulge below there stance must have resulted in a bit too much pressure. Hence it is now a proven fact that goretex overtrousers are not very wee watertight from the inside out – as it were.
We took the plunge and moved on from Chamonix. I am not sure whether Silvio has actually ever been to Cogne let alone climbed there but … perhaps between various political scandals he has exchanged banter with Stevie about the subtleties of figure 4s on X-Files. Probably not but it would have been good for both of them I am sure.
We have booked ourselves into Les Nigratelles and … wow … we have our own little apartment with wifi; clean sheets; hot shower; en suite etc. etc. (PS when I say ‘we’ please don’t read anything into the terminology!). Awesome! great day on Sunday:
https://wimpyalpinism.me/alps/through-the-tunnel-to-italy-and-cogne/
Just had a good rest day and … still feel tired!? However Frank was keen to take me and Mark up to ‘his’ new route above a little place called Buet (a mile or so away). Over the meal last night Frank assured us both that the approach was ‘flat’ and the route was safe. Ho, ho, ho!!!
Arrived at Buet and I was slightly curious as to how ‘flat’ could equate to 700m of ascent (assuming the map wasn’t incorrect) – “Nay bother, its nay tooo baadd” – Ahhh!! For some reason – and I have no logical explanation why – we knew it would be a good day!
After a seeming eternity (I mean it!) of switch back after switch back; warm temps and lots of frenchies overtaking us with ease we got to see THE ice fall. We were all very enthusiastic about the route – it looked really fantastic – apart from the spontaneous avalanches that kept sweeping the slopes above the route. Errmm … me and Mark were definitely in the ‘wimpyalpinism’ camp and preferrred not to get too close … Frank agreed.
Team ski (compeed) before the ava ...
It was about the same point in time that 3 french skiers up to our left had a ‘underpant changing’ experience as the slope they were on avalanched in a big way. No-one hurt thankfully. Okay – time to go down!!!
Being a bit of a wimp I put my climbing helmet on (just in case a tree jumped out in front of me!) to descend via the switchbacks. Unbelievably it was great fun!
Anyhow to finish here is a ‘nice’ picture of Mark’s foot after a few days ski-ing. Admittedly he needs a good pedicure but he does have an impressive blister too!!
Ugghh ... and the blister isn't very nice either.
Hi everyone – just had 3 days up at the Cosmiques hut and it was rather good. In fact it was so good that I definitely need a rest day today (body has ground to a halt!). Mark has gone off to ski the Vallee Blanche (plus an extra bit) with Frank. Anyhow rest day today so time to catch up with the Blogosphere and go to Cham to eat cakes and watch the world go by!
I have added some new pages – so if you want to take a look!
https://wimpyalpinism.me/alps/modica-noury-goulotte/
https://wimpyalpinism.me/alps/cosmiques-arete/
Dawn over the Grandes Jorasses - nice view from the breakfast table!
I must admit to feeling a little tired as this was the 7th day in a row (wimp! But at least true to the ethos …). We visited Cervieres today because it was a nice place to ski and also climb but equally it was a 50 minute drive so we could have a rest in the car! It was all ‘ski de fond’ but it still somehow involved 240m of ascent. The track skis were a little tricky and the sac full of climbing gear didn’t help the balance. Anyhow we made it to the crag and back (of course) and a good time was had by all. Rach and Stu fly back to morrow so looking forward to the rest/drive to Geneva :
Coooollllllll
Cascade Le Bourget - Cervieres
Okay so I got a bit lazy and missed out day 3 -5 (at least) but Stu’s blog was a bit too good – so look at Stu’ s blog for details of the previous days’ activities.
Mark arived last night so we headed of for the Cascade de la Balme (aka Erection!!). The guidebook said 20 mins so in true brit style we arrived at the base of the route in about 45 mins. Mmm … quite impressive and intimidating. Obviously Mark’s lead but no … he handed the sharp end to me on the grounds that I had been out for a week etc.
It was all rather steep and drippy (wet!!). For some reason I chose to wear my glasses today and had to carefully take them off and stash them in a pocket prior to the upper section. Very pragmatic solution but I couldn’t really focus too well on the footholds :). Great route and a good portent of things to come?? Who knows 🙂
Approaching the route
Deep breaths keep calm ... Mark's watching!
Bit of a bum shot (but at least it is petite)
Mark pulling over the steep bit - very wet!
I need more comments! Please look at my recent pages, hover over stu’s blog and look at my different pages if your not sure!
Okay we had had enough of the cold so we went ski-ing on the sunny side of the valley 🙂 -5deg C. True to our Yorkshire roots we used the jet boil stove to make some nice tasty soup outside the car!
No expense spared ski-ing trip
Yumm .... Ainsley Harriet Shropshire Pea! (the thing in Stu's mouth is a spork)
View from the lift across to La Meije - a nice day
Well we put the miles in from Zeebrugge and arrived a day early with the drive getting more exciting as we came closer to Gites la Breche (-16 and the odd snow flurry!). Today we visited La Grave and climbed a route called La Nuit sera Fraiche – really nice route but … it was still somewhere between -10 and -16 all day. Rather chilly. MUST wear more clothes tomorrow :). The guidebook says a nice 3+ but today it seemed rather tough (or may be that was me!). to say we only did one route we are all feeling rather tired this evening. Best bit was the MEGA bumslide down!
Rachel with sharp pointy things
Mmmm ... seems harder than it should!
Topping out
Stu styling with a pair of Nomics (mine!)
Okay – I may be getting rather the wrong side of my teenage years but as is correctly said … as men get older they don’t get rid of their toys they only get more EXPENSIVE. How true! I currently have acquired quite a few, new toys (I would argue that they are not expensive – certainly not relative to Italy’s monetary deficit. It’s GREAT!! French icefalls loom next weekend and I am like a kid in sweet shop – YAY!! I have added a new page to WIMPYALPINISM so that Stu can give a ore objective view of life than my usual rantings and ravings. I hope that you all follow it and … hey … a great way of keeping in touch!
wimpyalpinism 